Tuesday, March 8, 2011

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - Boxing day!!! (Hampapak)


I woke up at 5am today to the fantastic sound of the gibbon, just as I had been promised! Their shrill started off quietly with high pitched modulation. It did eventually get quite loud, at which point, it was time to get up, but it was amazing to just simply lie there and listen. adding to the soundtrack of the forest were crickets, birds and, apparently, a gecko. I did spot a small lizard like creature on the wall, but I had no idea they made such a noise, ''Ge-cko, Ge-cko'' as Adam told me.

There was also the clambering on the roof form the horn bill, rather amusing to say the least, although at first, I was a bit startled, not realisin
g what it was!

I write this from the speedboat again. I decided to go on the weekly trip ''to town''. Even though, I only go there yesterday, it's a good chance to see Palangka Raya. The gibbons will have me the rest of the time.

(6am) Morning feeding is at 6am every day. I fed TONGKIKI (Tongki)again♥. He
was just as adorable today, although, he did try to bite me as I got his poo!!! He also played with my hair and tried to eat the toilet roll...! (thankfully pre-poo...!) But, what a cutie!

He was eating from my hand or picking the food with his own hand from mine. And, he knows what he likes; he will turn his head away when he has had too much banana and he can totally hint at when he wants more lempak (lychee-like fruit).

Here is a glimpse inside the clinic - Meet Tongki & Manisa!
At 7am, the staff went to feed the other gibbons at camp, but that is when I decided to jump aboard the speed boat!

I am certainly enjoying the journey so much more than yesterday; there is no uncertainty of wondering where I am and I am therefore much more appreciative of the endless beauty around me.

.........................................................


Saturday, March 5, 2011

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - Christmas Day 2009!!! (Hampapak)


OK, I have been on the boat for what feels like a very long time, in reality, it's probably only around 20 minutes, but we are venturing into the unknown. All I see are trees and water and trees and water. Camp must be near...


Arriving at Palangka Raya airport was interesting. The airport (hut) had just a few passengers, and as you can imagine, I stuck out immensely, a sweating ball of curiosity and fascination. Emil & Eko, my drivers, took me along the Palangka Raya plains to the Kalaweit office and now to the boat where it does feel like an age, but it has started to
become more enclosed now....We must be near!!

Arriving at camp was a bit emotional. What an amazing feeling to finally be able to lay my bags down at the end destination.

Clambering out of the speed boat was fun, not elegant, but not too traumatic! Waiting at camp were Jean Paul, and his girlfriend Sophie and Adam. It looked very chilled indeed and it looks like this will be a very relaxed and lovely time.

I arrived bang on the gibbon's (in the clinic) feeding time - YAY!

Welcome to Hampapak!!! -
In the clinic, there are 3 gibbons. These guys are newly rescued and ADORABLE. Adam showed me how to feed Tongky,a cheeky boy gibbon, who liked to play around a bit before actually drinking his milk and eating his fruit.

It was all pretty magical and I really could have cried my eyes out, such was the emotion running through me. Tongky was awesome!! He came for his syringe of milk.....eventually anyway. So cute. Then I held a baby banana for him to bite from. Watching him eat right there in front of me was amazing. I couldn't get the smile off my face. Pure magic.

He took his time eating but it was great to simply stare and take it all in. This is what it was all about.

I was shown ''my room'' - 2 beds per room, with mosquito nets and some cupboards. Of course I have chosen the bed with the cartoon characters on the sheets!

But, it was already time for lunch - Steamed rice, cucumbers or courgettes in some salty, but really yummy sauce and some fried eggs. I was so hungry that I wolfed it down, so happy to be on the island of Hampapak, grounded. Dessert was the finest banana I have ever eaten, it was the size of my index finger, but as fresh as could be!! Yummo!

Then the guys (Adam and the Kalaweit staff) wanted to go off fishing...I went along for the 5 minute speed boat journey up the water to one of the dudes' houses. It was, quite simply, a hut on water.

A very small hut, at that. I could see a thin futon style mattress hanging on a rafter and, it seemed, that was all there was space for.


Outside the hut, he had wooden boxes, sitting under the water level, and apparently, storing fish, but we had no joy fishing with the rods, so we got the net and captured and load of snake fish, AKA dinner (!)


One of the guys grabbed a fish and showed me its teeth...You would not want to get bitten by them! So, you can imagine how I freaked when a few of them jumped out of the bag!! But we, rather they (!) rescued them, no worries!



Back at the ranch, the little beauties were washed and we just had to relax. Adam threw in some bamboo sticks to the sunbears. There are two in an enclosure next to the main hut. They are just adorable, I have never seen anything like them, especially not so close. Two small sunbears, separated from their families too early. One, the little one, just whimpered and ate his hand nervously. The other one, slightly bigger and stronger went straight for the bamboo and ripped it open to get at the banana.

All this as the rain started to fall. Right now, the storm is over us. It's just a little rain and thunder, sounds great on the corrugated iron roof. The thunder is spreading over Kalimantan and isn't too strong. Apparently, the rain was really bad before (remember , I had been told about the floods) and Chanee was actually contemplating stopping the volunteers from coming!!! Thank goodness that was not the case.

It's wonderful right now - It's 3.15pm and I am just sitting in a hut under the rain amongst the Borneo rain forest. Simply an amazing Christmas day.♥♥

All the animals have gone quiet in the rain, save a cricket or two, whistling away.

There's a baby macaque to the left of me in a cage (in quarantine). I can see him pottering about a bit, but the gibbon cage in view opposite, shows no signs of movement. I guess he is is hiding from the drizzle, just like the rest of them.

In quarantine, there are up to 80 gibbons being looked after. We walked through earlier and I have to say that, not all of them looked cute or friendly, like little Tongky in the clinic. Fair enough, mind, these are the ones who have been brought up in the wrong environment and then rescued after their owners had chained them up. One of the cheeky blighters stuck his hand out at me to swipe at me...scared me, but mostly reminded me that they are not called te-naga-zaru (テナガザル) for nothing (long armed monkey, in Japanese, although, please note, that they are lesser apes and not monkeys).

There were a couple of oldies, baldies, and fanged up ones too...made me think of my friend, Donna's fear!! But I am still reminded that these are special creature and I aim to do my little bit to help to save them.
Also on camp, there is a mad horn bill, a big black bird with a fantastic yellow beak (bigger than a toucan) and a white furry bottom! He has been pounding on the roof, back and forth, although, now, in the rain, he is happily hovering over the toilet area under some shelter.

There is also a marabou who, at this present moment, is just sat near me, collecting water around his feet and letting the rest run down his back.

He looks rather sad and bald. I don't know his story, but I know he bites. His beak is rather long!

The python killed off 2 of the gibbons, but has been found. My only fear now, is that the big buzzing thing that was in my room earlier will have made an exit by the time I go to sleep.

Tomorrow, I will meet Rahud, my sponsor gibbon. I can't wait! I hope he likes me!

(4pm) Feeding time soon, for the gibbons, not for me, although, I am already hungry! lol

This time, I looked after Manisa (all the gibbons inside the clinic are boys). We took him out and wrapped him in a towel. He was only 4 months old. I suddenly felt rather warm with this furry creature on my lap, but bless the poor blighter, he had peed with nerves on me! Great introduction! Nevertheless, he drank and ate and drank and drank.


What an appetite and soooo cute! But, we have to resist the urge to stroke them or cuddle them. It isn't good for them to get too used to human contact and attention as this will make it harder for them to be released into the wild, or to be paired up with their partner.





Snake fish for dinner - !!!!!
And so to bed...but not so easily!!

Bugs galore to freak me out -

First up, a big spider in the bed next to me!!! By big, I wouldn't say it was the size of my hand, but, then I shone the torch at it, its eyes stared right back at me.....

And then, a toilet trip, with a scary twist; similar glaring eyes watching you as you do what you have to do from a corner in the ceiling. But, apparently he has remains in the same spot for a short while, so I am told he is ok!!!

Finally, Adam (pictured above with Manisa) was hollering ''Snake! Snake!''. I simply had to go and watch and stare. He found it under the mattress in the bed next to his (soon to become my bed...!) I was fascinated as the Kalaweit staff and Adam too caught it.

I have no idea, nor want to know if he was dangerous or not, he was just bagged up and left, to be released far far away from here tomorrow.

For now, slumber sets in early. It's only around 9pm on Christmas day, but, a healthy fatigue begins to weigh on us all and we all say Goodnight & sweet dreams.


Thursday, March 3, 2011

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - Christmas Day 2009!!! (Wake up call...)

Salamat Natal!!!

After a couple of late night calls from my mum and Ian, I hit the sack at midnight with my alarms set for another dose of 5 hours of slumber; excitement overriding fatigue in any case!

However, and it is a big HOWEVER, I got a surprisingly loud alarm call at precisely 0415!!! It was the local call to prayer!! I wasn't banking on that one!! And it took me straight back to the days when I live with Mat in Whitechapel¬!

Luckily, I did pass out again till 5, but then it was showtime!! GAME ON!! Today it was all about - THE BIG BORNEO!!!!! My dream!!!!

♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥♥♥ ♥


I have no idea what to expect, and to be honest, I am really glad to have made it this far. It's unreal and amazing and I shall be writing about every single step in the jungle with the gibbons!!!!

Monday, February 28, 2011

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - 24 Dec 2009 - PM

The tour was a minibus with four other people, 2 Iranian couples, the tour guide, a Jakarta local, who later proved he spoke some Japanese too and the driver.

We drove for about an hour on the 'Golden Jakarta' tour. The Tamin centre is a huge area of treats for the tourist. It shows examples of each type of house from the main provinces in Indonesia. Some of the houses were very simple indeed, like the Timor huts. I the Timor section, there was a Dayak member. For 5000 Rupiah, I got my photo with him. I guess he needs his money too!



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It was great moment because, at that time, a huge group of school kids had filled the courtyard. They were staring at me with a pleasant curiosity during my photo shoot and after, we all took a photo together. They were cute - 'hello, my name is..' and 'My name is... . Nice to meet you.' Cute.
Next up, the gondola! Actually, I had no idea that this was included and I really should have checked but, before I knew it, I was in and on my way! The Fear sunk in very quickly, but thankfully, very briefly and soon enough i could enjoy the views of all the houses from up above and even some sort of Disneyland imitation palace, nice.

An added bonus to the day was the Komodo dragon 'museum' / enclosure. We got the chance to sit next to this seemingly docile creature. As much as I love most reptiles, I still got a bit freaked out by this monster. In all fairness, I had just seen a snake not long before that, bbbrrrrrrrrr. Shivers down the spine. I prodded him, just to be able to say that I touched him, but I couldn't bring myself to pick him up like some of the others did. Maybe 20 years ago...!

On the same note, it doesn't help to hear that there has been a python attack at camp in Borneo.

The dragon was awesome - so big, with a long, thin, silvery tongue, that darted in and out super quick as he was pushed by his keeper to get into a more 'photogenic' pose.

Then there were the Iguanas, amazing iguanas, sleeping away...and turtles, being all cute and turtle-like, and then...three crocodiles. They are are crazy creatures, so seemingly tame and docile, yet the ones I have been reading about in Borneo are not so - no dipping in the river for me!

A few things to note here in Jakarta, are the roads, the traffic and the people. I do not think I have ever seen so many mopeds / motorbikes and I haven't ever seen so many people on them either! So far, 2 adults and 2 kids was the worst, but that will change, no doubt. when they line up at the lights, you can easily count 20 or 30, or probably even more!

And the street sellers. One guy was selling newspapers, this seemed reasonable, it was around 5pm, made sense. Another guy was selling inflatable penguins (!), another was desperately trying to flog an atlas to one of my travelling companions!! My giggles were soon interrupted when I saw a one-armed, half-blind man, at the window, completely freaking me out. Then I saw a young girl begging for change from the car next door. Too sad.

All in all, it was an amazing day in Jakarta. Once the fear had subsided, there was plenty of fun to be had. I am so please to be doing this now and am rolling with it! Bring it on, I say!!




Tuesday, February 22, 2011

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - 24 Dec 2009 - AM

Five hours of sleep it seems will suffice for now.

Breakfast was good - some fresh fruits, great coffee and toast. And then, some rice, pak choi and chicken! Why not?! It was rather yum, but I didn't overindulge as the table next t
o me were looking at me. I realised that, although I have leggings on with my just-longer-than-knee-length skirt, I was wearing a short sleeve shirt, thus showing my arm. Perhaps this wasn't the best idea, so, donning a hoodie (remember the heat - day temps around 30!) and shades, I ventured out.

What an experience it all was. When I went out, I felt pretty awkward and very vulnerable. There were so many men just hanging out by the food stalls, of which there were also so many. And they were all staring, staring at me. I was 'trying to hide' under a hat and shades, but clearly clothes were not going to conceal the fact that I was not a local.

I got quite freaked out and contemplated hiding in my hotel room all day! That would have been a complete waste, so I persevered.

Fortunately, I stumbled across a hotel Ibis and I decided to ask in there about the internet cafe I thought I would never find. It turned out to be quite the refuge, catching up on mails and finding a little tour/travel office. I was able to book a little half day tour for the afternoon - things were looking up. They gave me info. and directions too for my subsequent shopping mission - I was, and still am, on the hunt for disposable cameras!!

Walking to the department store meant enduring a whole heap more stares. It's different from Japan, more intense stares, especially as I am a single white female wandering down the street. The stares felt intense but surprisingly not threatening I had read (and learnt along the way) just to ignore them and that is all you had to do.

I almost walked past the department store. It looked kind of shabby and derelict. It was off the road, with a 'Dunkin' Donuts' sign peeping out the corner. I took this as my cue and went in, the entrance honking of piss - nice.

Inside, it was all rather 'proper' like a regular department store, meaning that yes, I was expecting some run down one-storey sham...But it looked great with some nice fashion
s too. Of course, everyone was staring at me, customers and sales assistants alike, but I carried on.

The third had lots of kids stuff and there were also scarves and general attire for the Muslim girl. This is something I cannot comprehend, the girls I have seen thus far, (albeit on TV mostly) were quite dressed up, revealing their shape with tight leggings and tops. And then, there was me, melting in the heat and still getting stared at!

Anyway, I carried on up the escalators to the top floor, which was all batik stuff - awesome! Shame I couldn't buy more, but I had already had a mare fitting things in before I left Japan!
So, with a few souvenirs in tow as well as more anti mosquito sprays and creams (Indonesian stuff is the best! Japanese drug store supplies don't even compare!)

I got a lovely call from Jarrod back in Oz, which made me realise how far away we were and also made me think to get off the phone - the whole idea of being 'white & wealthy' (not that I am, you must understand, but it's all about impressions..)

Walking back to the hotel was better; I felt a bit stronger and more self assured. I dumped the shopping and headed back to the Hotel Ibis for my tour. With time to spare, I was able to m
ake a stop off en route for a lush lunch.I pigged out on pak choi and satay / sate and felt very glad indeed. Nom Nom. Do you see that bowl of peanut sauce?>!>!>!>!>!>? Mmmm...Did not last long on the plate, I tell ya!


Location:Jakarta, Indonesia.

KALAWEIT, Indonesia - 23 Dec 2009 (at the hotel)


I MADE IT!!!

If I were to be honest, I had TheFear and I could not visualise this happening! But, thankfully, my overactive imagination failed me. Jakarta airport was busier than I had imagined. There were trolley attendants everywhere 'willing to help'. I just knew to focus and not trust anyone. The guy next to me had started up a conversation as we got off the plane. When I tried to check about the taxi situation, him telling me he always had a driver wasn't totally reassuring. But the taxi counters were there and I ordered my bluebird taxi, thankfully avoiding any imposters.

The journey went smoothly. Thankfully, I was entertained with emails from England, but I realised too how alone I was and, in a country like Indonesia, it made me feel quite vulnerable and I shall be glad to get to Borneo to meet the others.

We drove through the brightly lit city centre and then through a quasi-shanty town.. Food stalls covered the curbs of the streets. many people, predominantly men, were hanging outside, chatting and smoking. One open shop front had a television set that a few guys were watching with their chairs on the pavement. It was good to see, somehow heartwarming, yet, I was glad to be inside, even if the temperature was Baltic inside (outside was 27 degrees)

Yeah, it feels strange to be in a city like this, alone.

I feel safe now in the hotel and I am looking forward to daylight tomorrow so I can explore somewhat.

Location:Jakarta, Indonesia.

KALAWEIT, Indonesia,- 23 Dec 2009 (on the plane)


The gibbon adventure begins.....(on the plane)

Last Monday, I was told that Borneo was flooded. It sent shivers down my spine, made me scared, but only because I thought the news was hinting at me cancelling the trip. Proof enough that this trip means so much to me.

For years, I have dreamt of heading to the Borneo jungle to experience a life like no other. I wanted to study the orangutans and come face to face with these 'people of the forest'.

Finally, at least 7 or 8 years, (or even more) since my first revelation, I found a volunteer project that wasn't huge, nor commercial, like so many others and didn't want to rob me blind. But, this charity wasn't for orangutans. It was for another ape, the lesser ape, the GIBBON!

I have to admit that I hardly knew what a gibbon was at first and I was interested in getting to Borneo. But now, months on from finding KALAWEIT,the gibbons rescue programme, I am all about these little round-faced creatures.

So, today, I am on board a plane to Singapore, then another to Jakarta, then, on Christmas day, one more plane (hopefully not propeller!) to my final destination --BORNEO!!

Since the news of the floods, I have, with the help of friends, been doing more research into my destination. Borneo should be fine, save the weather, but I must first spend two nights in Jakarta, a politically unsafe city, where general travel advice is against going it alone (for girls), not trusting most taxi drivers (check the metre really is working etc) and even fake immigration officers (!)

To say that I wasn't shitting it over the past few days would be lying. I knew that I must be very careful and cautious. My hotel is booked, I know what taxi to take and I know not to leave mt hotel to wander around at night.

So, filled with excitement, a few nerves and general loved-up giddiness, I embark upon this amazing, magical, dream-come-true adventure!

Salamat Jalan!