Indo Diaries 2010. Monday 5th July.

The journey begins.

Flying into Bali

I have no idea what lies ahead over the next 4 weeks.

I am about to embark on another volunteer adventure courtesy of Pro Fauna, Indonesia. I am going to stay at their P-WEC camp and hubby Hawgood will join in a couple of days.

Airport at Denpassar

 Domestic transfers at Bali was, as expected a bit of a nightmare, with sadly no one to guide me. The waiting lounge was more welcoming with a few shops, but I must resist and await ,my flight to Surabaya, the second city of Java.

Turtle Island, Bali

A small island south of Sanur, Bali used to be home to many turtles. Serangan island was and still is famous for its turtles, but these days the story is so very different.

The development of the island sent many of the turtles away from their natural habit. The same can be said with most of Bali. Developments ruins the natural breeding grounds for the turtles.

One organisation set up to protect the turtle and to educate the human is TCEC on Serangan island.

TCEC

The problem we have is that from both east and west coasts of Sanur, Kuta and Seminyak, tours are sold by the minute to 'Turtle Island'. 

Any quick google will mention an island once inhabited by turtles, so the visit may just seem genuine. A further search proves it to not be as many forums and blogs all reveal that it is a nightmare.

Sadly, we learnt the hard way that it was awful and, also,that another ten minutes online would have saved us from a terrible experience.

When we got off the boat, we had no idea how to proceed, so our man called over someone to guide us. He talked us through the area.

Can you see the bars behind us? Simply horrible.
((We were not smiling, but more in disgusted shock, this was seconds after we had got off the boat.))

There were turtles in an enclosed bay. Their area was caged off at the back and looked so very small.

The man explained to us about the big turtles, saying how they were released every six months or so and new ones were brought in.

Then he showed us smaller pools slightly inland where there were so many turtles grouped together.

This one is apparently 'resting' but I really couldn't make out any element of peace for the poor thing

As we walked around, our unwelcome guide continued to babble on about the eggs, the turtles, and most worryingly enough, kept talking about their 'release', which sounded less and less believable the more he continued.

We also saw bats, sleeping soundly until he poked them and woke them 'for our pleasure'.

The macaques they had were sad and lonely. One three month old baby was on his own but when I asked what kind of monkey it was, just to be sure, my response was 'Bali monkey, just like in the forest.'

The ignorance of this particular hawker, scammer, horrid being was atrocious.

As we left, we passed a box for donations. It actually said that it was for the animals, animals who live on things in the sea or growing on trees.

It makes me sick that these things exist, that we fell for it and that it continues to exist.

The black market is still very prominent in Bali as some other parts of Indonesia, yet the lack of awareness makes us all somehow be part of it.

I add this to the many blogs, forum posts out there and hope that we can help these poor creatures.

Do not go to turtle island, not unless it is the conservation centre itself. You can only access it by road, so no glass bottom boats and caged animals, thank you very much.

HAWKERS

In tourist resorts, people will hound you a lot to join their tour, buy from their shop etc. But, Bali has to be one of the craziest places where you simply cannot shake off a hawker no matter how skilled you may be.

'Look in my shop'.
'Looking, walking, looking...'

'Need driver tomorrow?'

'Jet ski?'

Whatever it may be on offer, think carefully about shrugging them off.

The silent treatment is good, if you like staring at pavements that is. Personally, I feel stupidly guilty at ignoring their polite greeting, so quickly smile and then look at the pavement shaking my head.

Hawkers come in a variety of guises. Men, women, there is no telling who will be worse.

Last year we were stung by a hideous driver. We thought organising him through the hotel was a good vibe, although bear in mind I had booked us the one and only skanky hotel in Bali! Clearly no one there is to be trusted.

The driver desperately tried to stop many a time to drop us at some 'traditional' Balinese thing, be it dancing, batik or plain Blah...

Thing is, we had just spent a few weeks travelling around Java (hence the cheap hotel, a booking we soon changed!) we had seen all the batik we had wanted to see. We had had our wedding rings made and engraved at a cute back street store where the 'factory' was the back work room. We certainly did not need to see more.

We were strong, but not strong enough. The driver succeeded in taking us to a Barong dance where we had to pay for the 'pleasure' of seeing even more gamelan (we were in fact on our way to BUY our own gamelan to lug back to Japan!)

We eventually got through to the guy that we did not need to see any ceramics, silverware, batik. He was not amused.

After our day in Ubud, we met him to drive back home. The journey back was longer and more painful. We had to refuse some night time dance performance, which then led to him telling us our hard his life was. He worked long hours, drove, had a family to car for ...blah blah.

He also had the nerve to make up a story about how his boss takes such a big percentage of the fare that we were about to pay.

In the end, we felt so sorry for him and were so glad to get out of the car, that we did tip him. However, we peered down the stairs in the hotel only to see him going back him to collect the money he had made us give to the front desk.

Ugh. It is too tiring.

Last week, I was so in the zone of the beach vibe that which enjoying my favourite avocado juice, I was offered a massage. At 20 000IDR, I would never complain. Why not.

During the massage, I ignored the uncomfortable feeling of her rough hands and her ring digging into my skin. I also turned a blind eye to the fact that this was not a massage, but more of an assault to the skin and muscle, should there be any left when she is finished. And, I thought of the cheap price we were paying when she battered my face, digging her thumbs into anything but my pressured points.

How shocked were we then to learn, that, at the end of all this, the damage to our purse was just as bad. The total for two people had been hiked up to 140 000IDR!!!! (for the record, my husband didn't feel so much grief during his massage time).

I think the moment we fell, was the moment we said that yes, we were on honeymoon. I imagine that some people have prejudices about those who come to the islands here to celebrate their nuptials, and presumptions of much money are no doubt presumed.

Even if you are, do not say you are on honeymoon. It could lead to financial grief.

Sadly, the anger kicked in slowly and we paid begrudgingly. By the time we got back to the villa, we were fuming and as a result decided to not go on a fishing boat with a guy who was offering us a great price in the same area of the beach.

Who knows whether he was genuine or not now.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Jalan Cemara,Denpasar,Indonesia

KALAWEIT , Indonesia, 4th January 2011 - boat ride

I can't believe it is my last full day today.....

I woke in the night and heard lots of strange noises. I heard a gibbon shrill, so was convinced it was around 4am, but it wasn't. It was 2am. When I checked the time, I wondered if it was the escapee.

Then I could hear scratching; I thought it to be the rat, and then the gecko, the then beds creaked and the snoring.....Nevertheless, I still had to go for a pee!

When the gibbons did start their shrill, it was early and loud. There had been no rain, so the creatures started early with their song.

Tongki's last full feeding day today and I almost missed breakfast because I went back to sleep!  The little beggar bit my shoulder as I grabbed his big poo. Cheeky blighter.

I went off with the guys for the morning feed. I was even more surprised to see that the levels of water were higher, even higher than yesterday. The island collects the water from the river easily, so the levels can get really high, even without rain. It was good to feed the gibbons, I might not be able to do it tomorrow if there is more water.

1015 - WOW.

Adam and I have just returned from an amazing, ultimate boat journey. Coleman and one of the other Kalaweit staff took us out on their own boats. What an experience. These boats are so solid, but so low to the water that when you wobble you really do think you are going in.

We went through the jungle and the scenery was simply astounding.

Going through the beautiful forest

Where are the trees?

Heading home

The colours were amazing. The greens, light and dark. There were trees on one side, then a vast opening on another. There had been a fire a few years back.

We parked up by a watch tower and sat at the top of the tower in pure silence for half an hour or so. We sat in pure silence and it was pure bliss.

Me with the gang

The Kalaweit team

KALAWEIT , Indonesia, 3rd January 2011

I cannot believe I only have two days left. I would love to be able to stay longer....next time.

I have to add also, that, after four nights of interrupted sleep, I finally slept like a baby! I woke at 4am to the sound of the rain, which seemed to stop, just as day broke, perfect timing.

I didn't realise the extent of the rain until the 7am feeding. The puddles came up to my bottom!

Apparently, when the floods were here, the guys had to use their boats to feed the gibbons on the other side of camp.

So, we handed out the bananas, papayas and timun (courgettes) and returned to camp.

I had my brekky (yummy veggies, fish and rice) and then it was time to go again and give treats to the gibbons. Everyday is something different. Today was strawberry milk (susu). Other days have been vitamins, chicken, boiled eggs....these guys are well looked after!

But, when we got to cage 55, we had to pay good attention as they were aggressive gibbons. Nanto, the vet, suddenly let out a shriek, he had spotted that the gibbons in the next cage had escaped. How he spotted I don't know, but he has sharp eyes, and could even see at a distance.

As he turned around to tell us, the gibbon in cage 55 grabbed his t-shirt and pulled him back towards the cage with such a force, that even he was shocked and could barely pull away. It took him a minute or two to escape the gibbon's grip.

We needed a plan of action. Pauline and I were told to go to camp, Nanto led the way; it wasnt sade for us, perhaps as girls we weren't strong enough. The boys and him and to go hunt the escapee.

Pauline and I got to have a good girly chat while we did the laundry, but when the boys did return, there was a sombre air about them. They didn't catch the gibbon..he is still on the loose. They closed the escape route, and made an opening for him to return to.

Nanto didn't seem too concerned. That is why they are on a island, they can never go too far!! They hate water, so we can hope that the gibbon will go home when he is hungry.

8pm feeding time, Tongki was conked out. He was holding his towel, lying on his tummy. When I went in, he reached out his hand to hold mine as he carried on sleeping. he whimpered as I pulled away to get ready to feed him. His eyes were so sleepy. 

Oh boy, I am going to miss him when I leave.

He had three syringes of milk but only one banana.

Bed time now. big day tomorrow - My last full day!!!!

KALAWEIT , Indonesia, 2nd January 2011

Today should be the big trip into town. Adam and I are very excited because we can stock up on goodies, mostly food related!

But, it's also sad because Sophie and Jean-Pierre return to France tomorrow, so they must fly to Jakarta today.

We all packed into the boat, rucksacks and many people......................

                                    ..................................And what a great day it was!!!

First, we had to disembark half way. The journey was taking twice as long, given the weight in the boat. We reached a village on the riverside and then sent Sophie & Jean-Paul on their way so that they could make their plane. We were to wait for the truck to collect us.

Bon voyage!

 We walked around looking for the 'shop', where we found some tea. And then, as if like a wildfire, the word had spread amongst the residents and, suddenly, the whole neighbourhood was out to look at us and talk with us. There were so many kids and not one of them was shy, well not the boys anyway. Within seconds, they were throwing themselves into the water in a display of energy and vibrancy. Some of them even spoke English, counting to ten before the big plunge.

We took so many photographs together, the boys acting like superstars and the girls just staring. A stray cat without a tail went by, but I had some cat food already (for the cats at the harbour). And some chickens ran in the street.

And then the truck came for us. The road to Palankgya Raya was a rocky one. We crossed a number of rickety bridges. Even on the small roads, we still had to make space for scooters.

It might have been bumpy and Ayung was bouncing around on my lap, but it was still a wonderful chance to see the riverside villages.

Outside one house, a mother and her daughter were collecting rambutan from a tree outside.One old lady was walking down to the river with a cigarette hanging out of her mouth!

When we eventually hit the main road, the traffic was mad; scooters overloaded with families filled the streets and cars veered in and out again and again.

We went straight to the Kalaweit offices, checked emails, bought t-shirts and then we were lucky enough to pop over to the Kalaweit Radio station.

It was so great to see the inside of something so wonderful. Kalaweit Radio reaches out across Kalimantan to spread the music and to spread the word of the gibbon rescue. Thanks to the radio, so many people know who to call when they see an animal in distress and they can be rescued and cared for.

We hit the shops for a quick spree on cookies and chocolates.

We got a great lunch and then headed back home on the boat.

Back at camp, there was just time to feed the gibbons and then hit the sack, pooped!

KALAWEIT , Indonesia, New Year's Day 2010

SELAMUT TAHUN BARU

7.15 here, midnight in the the UK, hangover time in Japan!

I had my 3rd restless night...A couple of times I had to rise in the night. I wouldn't mind so much but the spider was sat right next to the toilet! Aaarg! And a cockraoch on the door on my return....I need to overcome my fear!

After some noodles for breakfast, I was back on track! We think that I might have used the wrong water to brush my teeth, hence the dodgy tummy.

.............................................

Oh my goodness - just went for 'berenang'!! We took a dip in the Borneo river and went swimming. We sawm to the middle and if you can imagine looking around at the Borneo jungle in the middle of a river 4 or 4 times wider then the Thames (or more)...WOW!! It felt more than good, a kind of raison d'etre, if you will, topping off an already ultimate adventure...la cerise sur la gateau!

..................................................

12pm - DRAMA ON CAMP!!! It was feeding time, and one of the staff members announced that a gibbon had escaped!!! I had no idea what it would entail, so when I finished up with Tongki, I went to have a peek, by which point, Bolang, the said escapee, had been caught in a net and was being put in a cage. He had pulled apart the wiring on his own cage, proving that they were not infallible, even though they look pretty sturdy. Bolang's arms reached out of the cage a few times, grabbing at the branches, almost toppling himself. He is quite aggressive.

Watching the scene and thinking how great Nanto, the vet was, I was reminded that I could never take on something like that. As much as I love helping the animals in need, the scary ones are just that - scary!

Nanto had to fix the top of the cage as well as the side. Bolang was strong to escape, but thankfully, is safe in his cage once again! Phew.

*******************************

Nap tap was viciously interrupted with wails from Ayung, the cook's son. He had been playing with the birds when there was a sudden thud, and shriek! We all heard it and feared the worst. His foot had slipped through some damp wood but was more in shock than in pain. He was crying quite loudly and was happy to receive a Japanese Shippu (cold compress) on his leg.

4pm feeding time! Fun at the fair....I was cornered by the maribu and spent a fair bit of time running forwards and backwards thinking I could out-smart him! I failed and Jean-Pierre had to distract him so I could escape! Thank heavens! Sadly, he and Sophie are leaving tomorrow, so no more rescues!

Back at camp, entertainment was provided by the big sun bear. She was levering on a very insecure tree and bouncing back and forth. It should have snapped, but somehow she was lucky and it didn't. She was determined to reach something on another branch and seemed to not want to give up. Bless her perseverance!